{"id":839,"date":"2012-04-16T08:39:00","date_gmt":"2012-04-16T08:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/en\/?p=839"},"modified":"2026-04-04T07:06:34","modified_gmt":"2026-04-04T07:06:34","slug":"boi-tran-and-the-language-of-taste-a-fork-in-asias-road-best-bites-of-an-occidental-glutton","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/boi-tran-and-the-language-of-taste-a-fork-in-asias-road-best-bites-of-an-occidental-glutton\/","title":{"rendered":"B\u1ed9i Tr\u00e2n v\u00e0 Ng\u00f4n Ng\u1eef c\u1ee7a V\u1ecb | M\u1ed9t L\u1ed1i R\u1ebd Trong H\u00e0nh Tr\u00ecnh \u1ea8m Th\u1ef1c \u00c1 \u0110\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a John Krich"},"content":{"rendered":"

\n\t\t\tB\u1ed9i Tr\u00e2n v\u00e0 Ng\u00f4n Ng\u1eef c\u1ee7a V\u1ecb | M\u1ed9t L\u1ed1i R\u1ebd Trong H\u00e0nh Tr\u00ecnh \u1ea8m Th\u1ef1c \u00c1 \u0110\u00f4ng c\u1ee7a John Krich\t<\/h2>\n

\n\t\t\tJohn Krich\t<\/h5>\n
\n\t\t\t\t\"John\n\t\t
Author John Krich<\/figcaption>\n\t<\/figure>\n\t

Writing on Hue, John Krich pauses in Boi Tran’s garden, where the light disappears before the first course. What emerges in its place is not darkness, but a different clarity, one in which the meal is no longer seen, but recognised.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\"A\n\t\t
A Fork in Asia’s Road: Adventures of an Occidental Glutton, John Krich<\/figcaption>\n\t<\/figure>\n\t

\u00c1nh s\u00e1ng t\u1eaft tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi b\u1eefa \u0103n b\u1eaft \u0111\u1ea7u.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i do s\u1eafp \u0111\u1eb7t, m\u00e0 nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u ki\u1ec7n c\u1ee7a ch\u00ednh n\u01a1i ch\u1ed1n, m\u1ed9t s\u01b0\u1eddn \u0111\u1ed3i n\u1eb1m ngo\u00e0i th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1, n\u01a1i con \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng d\u1eabn v\u1ec1 ph\u00eda nh\u1eefng l\u0103ng t\u1ea9m ho\u00e0ng gia v\u00e0 bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e9p \u0111\u1ebfn m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb ng\u1eaft qu\u00e3ng. Trong m\u1ed9t kho\u1ea3nh kh\u1eafc ng\u1eafn, b\u00e0n \u0103n ch\u00ecm v\u00e0o b\u00f3ng t\u1ed1i. R\u1ed3i d\u1ea7n d\u1ea7n, \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng n\u00e9t tr\u1edf l\u1ea1i, t\u00e1n c\u00e2y h\u00e9 l\u1ed9 b\u1ea7u tr\u1eddi, v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng m\u00f3n \u0103n hi\u1ec7n ra, kh\u00f4ng nh\u01b0 s\u1ef1 tr\u00ecnh b\u00e0y, m\u00e0 nh\u01b0 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ec7n di\u1ec7n.<\/p>\n

Kh\u00f4ng \u0111i\u1ec1u g\u00ec \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c b\u1ed9c l\u1ed9 ngay l\u1eadp t\u1ee9c.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\"Prawns\n\t\t
Prawns with Five Spices<\/figcaption>\n\t<\/figure>\n\t

M\u1ed7i y\u1ebfu t\u1ed1 \u0111\u1ec1u gi\u1eef l\u1ea1i. M\u1ed9t con t\u00f4m trong n\u0103m v\u1ecb n\u1eb1m trong th\u1ee9 n\u01b0\u1edbc d\u00f9ng trong tr\u1ebbo kh\u00f4ng t\u00ecm c\u00e1ch g\u00e2y \u1ea5n t\u01b0\u1ee3ng. M\u1ed9t tr\u00e1i v\u1ea3 b\u0103m nhuy\u1ec5n, n\u00eam n\u1ebfm, g\u1ee3i l\u1ea1i c\u1ea3m gi\u00e1c c\u1ee7a c\u00e1i s\u1ed1ng m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng m\u00f4 ph\u1ecfng n\u00f3. M\u1ed9t b\u00e1t s\u00fap \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ninh trong nhi\u1ec1u gi\u1edd t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i s\u1ef1 r\u00fat ng\u1eafn. \u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u00e1ng t\u1ea1o m\u1edbi, c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i. Ch\u00fang thu\u1ed9c v\u1ec1 m\u1ed9t d\u00f2ng ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i ch\u01b0a b\u1ecb \u0111\u1ee9t \u0111o\u1ea1n, ch\u1ec9 t\u1ea1m th\u1eddi l\u1ec7ch \u0111i, v\u00e0 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y, \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c l\u1eb7ng l\u1ebd n\u1ed1i l\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

Tr\u01b0\u1edbc khi ch\u1ea1m v\u00e0o m\u00f3n \u0103n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean, ng\u01b0\u1eddi ta nh\u1eadn ra r\u1eb1ng \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng theo ngh\u0129a th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng. Kh\u00f4ng gian n\u00e0y kh\u00f4ng t\u1ed5 ch\u1ee9c quanh vi\u1ec7c ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5. N\u00f3 m\u1edf ra nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t ph\u1ea7n k\u00e9o d\u00e0i c\u1ee7a \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng.<\/p>\n

Ph\u00eda tr\u01b0\u1edbc l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t ph\u00f2ng tranh d\u00e0i, n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng b\u1ee9c v\u1ebd v\u1ec1 ph\u1ee5 n\u1eef v\u00e0 phong c\u1ea3nh t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i trong tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i kh\u00f4ng c\u1ea7n gi\u1ea3i th\u00edch. Ph\u00eda sau, khu v\u01b0\u1eddn m\u1edf ra v\u1edbi h\u1ed3 sen, c\u00e2y tr\u00e1i v\u00e0 nh\u1eefng ng\u00f4i nh\u00e0 g\u1ed7 kh\u00f4ng t\u00e1i d\u1ef1ng truy\u1ec1n th\u1ed1ng, m\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c n\u00f3. Trong h\u01a1n m\u1ed9t th\u1eadp k\u1ef7, B\u1ed9i Tr\u00e2n l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c t\u1ea1i \u0111\u00e2y, v\u1ebd v\u00e0 n\u1ea5u trong c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t kh\u00f4ng gian, kh\u00f4ng t\u00e1ch r\u1eddi hai \u0111i\u1ec1u \u1ea5y.<\/p>\nB\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng di chuy\u1ec3n gi\u1eefa c\u00e1c l\u0129nh v\u1ef1c.
\nB\u00e0 \u1edf l\u1ea1i trong c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i.\n

\u0110i\u1ec1u xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n tr\u00ean tranh v\u00e0 \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u1eb7t tr\u00ean b\u00e0n kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 hai th\u1ef1c h\u00e0nh song song. Ch\u00fang \u0111i ra t\u1eeb c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebft ch\u1ebf, c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 t\u1eeb ch\u1ed1i ph\u00f4 b\u00e0y, c\u00f9ng m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ch\u00fa t\u00e2m v\u00e0o nh\u1eefng g\u00ec kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ph\u00e9p m\u1ea5t \u0111i.<\/p>\n

“At first, I cooked only for friends,” she says, without emphasis. “Then people began to ask.”<\/p>\n

C\u1eed ch\u1ec9 \u1ea5y kh\u00f4ng thay \u0111\u1ed5i. N\u00f3 ch\u1ec9 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c m\u1edf r\u1ed9ng.<\/p>\n

Trong m\u1ed9t th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 th\u01b0\u1eddng \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c g\u1ecdi l\u00e0 kinh \u0111\u00f4 \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c c\u1ee7a Vi\u1ec7t Nam, n\u01a1i nh\u1eefng m\u1ea3nh v\u1ee5n c\u1ee7a \u1ea9m th\u1ef1c cung \u0111\u00ecnh c\u00f2n t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i d\u01b0\u1edbi nh\u1eefng d\u1ea1ng thu nh\u1ecf ho\u1eb7c c\u00e1ch \u0111i\u1ec7u, \u0111i\u1ec1u xu\u1ea5t hi\u1ec7n \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 ph\u1ee5c d\u1ef1ng theo ngh\u0129a tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i b\u1ea3o t\u1ed3n \u0111\u1ec3 tr\u01b0ng b\u00e0y.<\/p>\n

M\u00e0 l\u00e0 ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\t\t\"\"\n\t\t
Artworks displayed at Boi Tran Garden (Boi Tran Art Gallery)<\/figcaption>\n\t<\/figure>\n\t

\u1ea8m th\u1ef1c Hu\u1ebf, trong h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c tinh t\u1ebf nh\u1ea5t c\u1ee7a n\u00f3, ch\u01b0a bao gi\u1edd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c thi\u1ebft k\u1ebf cho s\u1ef1 d\u01b0 th\u1eeba. N\u00f3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c c\u1ea5u tr\u00fac b\u1eb1ng c\u00e2n b\u1eb1ng, b\u1eb1ng kh\u1ea9u ph\u1ea7n nh\u1ecf, b\u1eb1ng s\u1ef1 s\u1eafp \u0111\u1eb7t ch\u00ednh x\u00e1c, m\u1ed9t c\u1ea3m quan \u0111\u1eb7t ngang nhau gi\u1eefa m\u00e0u s\u1eafc, h\u01b0\u01a1ng v\u1ecb v\u00e0 h\u00ecnh th\u1ee9c. Nh\u1eefng nguy\u00ean t\u1eafc \u1ea5y kh\u00f4ng th\u1ec3 t\u00e1i t\u1ea1o b\u1eb1ng quy m\u00f4. Ch\u00fang ch\u1ec9 c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c duy tr\u00ec b\u1eb1ng s\u1ef1 ch\u00fa t\u00e2m.<\/p>\n

B\u1ed9i Tr\u00e2n kh\u00f4ng tuy\u00ean b\u1ed1 m\u00ecnh kh\u00f4i ph\u1ee5c \u0111i\u1ec1u \u0111\u00e3 m\u1ea5t. B\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng \u0111\u1eb7t m\u00ecnh v\u00e0o m\u1ed9t c\u00e2u chuy\u1ec7n ph\u1ee5c h\u1ed3i. Thay v\u00e0o \u0111\u00f3, b\u00e0 l\u00e0m vi\u1ec7c trong ph\u1ea7n c\u00f2n l\u1ea1i, ch\u1ecdn l\u1ecdc, tinh ch\u1ec9nh v\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 n\u00f3 ti\u1ebfp t\u1ee5c m\u00e0 kh\u00f4ng b\u1ecb bi\u1ebfn d\u1ea1ng.<\/p>\n\u0110\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 ho\u00e0i ni\u1ec7m.
\n\u0110\u00e2y l\u00e0 tr\u00e1ch nhi\u1ec7m.\n

Cu\u1ed9c \u0111\u1eddi c\u1ee7a b\u00e0, c\u0169ng nh\u01b0 kh\u00f4ng gian b\u00e0 t\u1ea1o d\u1ef1ng, kh\u00f4ng \u0111i theo m\u1ed9t \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng th\u1eb3ng duy nh\u1ea5t. \u0110\u01b0\u1ee3c \u0111\u00e0o t\u1ea1o nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t h\u1ecda s\u0129, h\u00ecnh th\u00e0nh qua nhi\u1ec1u n\u0103m th\u1ef1c h\u00e0nh t\u1ea1i Th\u00e0nh ph\u1ed1 H\u1ed3 Ch\u00ed Minh, b\u00e0 tr\u1edf v\u1ec1 Hu\u1ebf kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i \u0111\u1ec3 r\u00fat lui, m\u00e0 \u0111\u1ec3 t\u1ea1o ra m\u1ed9t n\u01a1i m\u00e0 ngh\u1ec7 thu\u1eadt, k\u00fd \u1ee9c v\u00e0 \u0111\u1eddi s\u1ed1ng c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 c\u00f9ng t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i. Khu v\u01b0\u1eddn ch\u01b0a bao gi\u1edd \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c h\u00ecnh dung nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t nh\u00e0 h\u00e0ng. N\u00f3 ch\u1ec9 tr\u1edf th\u00e0nh nh\u01b0 v\u1eady khi c\u1ea7n \u0111\u00f3n nh\u1eadn nh\u1eefng ng\u01b0\u1eddi t\u00ecm \u0111\u1ebfn.<\/p>\n

\u0110i\u1ec1u \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c trao \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 s\u1ef1 hi\u1ebfu kh\u00e1ch theo ngh\u0129a th\u00f4ng th\u01b0\u1eddng. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i tr\u00ecnh di\u1ec5n. Kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i ph\u1ee5c v\u1ee5.<\/p>\n

M\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t l\u1eddi m\u1eddi \u0111\u1ec3 \u1edf l\u1ea1i.<\/p>\n

Trong s\u1ef1 v\u1eafng m\u1eb7t c\u1ee7a d\u01b0 th\u1eeba, m\u1ed9t \u0111i\u1ec1u kh\u00e1c tr\u1edf n\u00ean r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng. B\u1eefa \u0103n kh\u00f4ng t\u00ecm c\u00e1ch t\u00e1i hi\u1ec7n qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9, c\u0169ng kh\u00f4ng di\u1ec5n gi\u1ea3i n\u00f3. N\u00f3 gi\u1eef m\u1ed9t tr\u1ea1ng th\u00e1i n\u01a1i qu\u00e1 kh\u1ee9 ch\u01b0a ho\u00e0n to\u00e0n bi\u1ebfn m\u1ea5t.<\/p>\n

And in that condition, Boi Tran’s work, whether on canvas or at the table, does not present itself as achievement.<\/p>\n

N\u00f3 t\u1ed3n t\u1ea1i nh\u01b0 m\u1ed9t s\u1ef1 ti\u1ebfp n\u1ed1i.<\/p>\n

\n\t\t\tB\u1ea1n c\u00f3 th\u1ec3 quan t\u00e2m\t<\/h2>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Khi vi\u1ebft v\u1ec1 Hu\u1ebf, John Krich d\u1eebng l\u1ea1i trong khu v\u01b0\u1eddn c\u1ee7a B\u1ed9i Tr\u00e2n, n\u01a1i \u00e1nh s\u00e1ng t\u1eaft tr\u01b0\u1edbc m\u00f3n \u0111\u1ea7u ti\u00ean. \u0110i\u1ec1u hi\u1ec7n ra kh\u00f4ng ph\u1ea3i l\u00e0 b\u00f3ng t\u1ed1i, m\u00e0 l\u00e0 m\u1ed9t d\u1ea1ng r\u00f5 r\u00e0ng kh\u00e1c, n\u01a1i b\u1eefa \u0103n kh\u00f4ng c\u00f2n \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c nh\u00ecn th\u1ea5y, m\u00e0 \u0111\u01b0\u1ee3c ghi nh\u1eadn.<\/p>","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":6530,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[24,23,22,25,9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-839","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-architecture","category-art","category-cuisine","category-culture","category-stories"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/839","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=839"}],"version-history":[{"count":31,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/839\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":8078,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/839\/revisions\/8078"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/6530"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=839"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=839"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/boitran.com\/vi\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=839"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}